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Summer Corn and Green Papaya Salad, Invented by Amelie

After I described the mortar and pestle techniques I learned in Thailand, Amelie got very excited about pounding. So she came up with this salad, which I consulted on. It was fantastic

one ear of corn, off the ear
olive oil and balsalmic (3 to 1 ratio)
green papaya (about a 1/4) grated
coriander, salt, pepper, ground
pound these elements together.
add tomatoes, quartered (I pounded mine in to great success. Amelie preferred hers entire)
Place on plate a mix of salad greens and pea sprouts. Layer on the pounded mix. The juices act as dressing.
I topped ours with lightly seared Saucisson a l’Ail (garlic sausage)

this dish was amazing. I can’t tell you how well the green papaya worked with what were essentially french flavors. This kid is going places.

nahm nahm nahm

David Thompson is the most important chef you haven’t heard of.

First a quick note on my tastes; I’ve eaten at many of the biggies, from French Laundry to Trois Gros and adored them, so I am at least educated. But recently I’ve grown bored with fancy food, from Chef Mavro in Hawaii to John Besh in New Orleans. Ok, I’m a spoiled brat, because they are all delicious but all kind of the same– French influenced in season tiny bites of perfect… yeah. It’s good. It’s all the same.

And I also adore Thai food; to the degree I spend a chunk of time in Thailand at a professional cooking course in Koh Samui so I could truly understand it. So on my last night in Bangkok I agonized between a night market or eating at David Thompson’s acclaimed nahm. I was suspicious of nahm, because if I learned one thing about eating in Bangkok; if there is a roof involved, the food won’t be as good. Plus he’s Australian! And, since I’d had the best sausage of my life on the street for 50 cents, why pay 70 bucks for a tasting menu when 7 would do?

Well, boy was I wrong. Wrongy wrong wrong. nahm blew my mind (and blew out my tongue, but more on that later)

These photos cannot do justice to the depth of flavor, the so-very Thai balance of sweet, spicy, salty, sour and sometimes bitter. They cannot represent how perfect each protein was cook, or the luscious nature of the sauce. But maybe they will convince you to trek over there so you can too enjoy this gorgeous, gorgeous food.

Amuse buche of pork/shrimp/chicken/peanut on pineapple



smoked fish on tapioca, muscle satay, salt chicken in longon twille, spicy pork salad on betal leaf

appetizer plate


Soft shell crab with pomelo; a version of Yum Som-o


Grilled pork. Don’t know what he did to it, but it was both delicious and had the most amazing texture.  Possibly the best thing I ate.  and worst picture I took. ;)


Curried beef. a bit too spicy for me. Tasty enough I kept trying though.



Soup of squid and pork; very salty like the sea and very very yummy



These three came together (as did the previous three) an amazing shrimp in coconutmilk, a tasty fried fish and some rather odd and (IMHO) useless salad.


As my mouth was howling with pain, my waiter kindly brought me a treat to stop the heat: roasted apples with palm sugar. and it worked!



the dessert: lycee iced soup with fried shallots and thai “cupcakes.” I could eat this for the rest of my life.



Also, mango with chili



and, of course, pettifor, all “lucky:” mung bean with gold leaf, crispy rice, a merangue for “lovely lady” and young coconut


Duck Noodle Soup (Klauy Tiao Phed)

I learned this dish at SITCA, on Koh Samui from Roogha who is an amazing chef (see photos below.) I think it was my favorite dish I learned. It’s not spicy, and the eggs are heavenly… I’d recommend putting in extra, then fishing them out for snacks.

The dish can be prepared ahead of time, and keep for a bit, as you add the noodles and bean sprouts as you serve, keeping it all fresh and perfect.

Ingredients

 

Cut duck with scissorsDuck cut into correct sized pieces4 cup fresh duck cut bite-size pieces or chicken

a note on cutting duck; duck (and chicken) bones can shatter, or using kitchen shears is recommended to avoid splinters of bone. 

 

Turnips and mushroomsmushrooms cut on a bias2 cup white turnip cut bite sized

10-15 black mushroom soak until it soft. Slice them on the bias (see photo

 

5 panden leaves

 

1 tbsp. black peppercorn

¼ cup clove anise seeds

5 pieces cinnamon stick (about 2 inch)

2 tbsp. cardamom

1 tbsp. cumin seeds

5 coriander roots

5 cloves garlic crushed

2 cup soy bean oil (for deep frying duck)

6-10 boiled eggs

note: these eggs will be cooked slowly in the broth, and the stock will permeate them. They will become the most delicious thing you have eaten.

25-30 cup chicken stock

1 cup kale cut into bite-size

2 cup bean sprouts (or white cabbage finely sliced)

¼ cup spring onions chopped finely

¼ cup coriander leaves chopped finely

¼ cup celery leaves and steam chopped finely

½ cup palm sugar

¼ cup white cane sugar

2 tbsp. dark soy sauce

¼ cup white soy sauce (to taste)

2 tbsp. seasoning sauce

¼ cup cornstarch

 

Condiments

3 cup medium fresh rice noodles (if use dry noodle soak in warm water until soft about 30 minutes.)

2 cup kale cut into bite-size

3 cup bean sprouts

1 cup sweet basil

½ cup spring onions chopped finely

½ cup coriander chopped finely

½ cup celery chopped finely

Preparation

      1. Boil well the chicken stock 25-30 cups in a large pot. Add the turnip, mushrooms, 5 pandan leaves. Boil about 1 minute.
      2. Heat a dry wok. Add the coriander root, garlic, peppercorn, anise, cinnamon, cardamom, cumin; stir until it fragrant.
      3. Wrap the toasted spices well in a square of cheesecloth. (chef attached a stone mortar to weight it down) Put in the stock boil it well.tying to mortar to the cheese cloth so it stays down
      4. Heat the oil in a wok. Add the duck; fry until browned and drain. Put in the boiling chicken stock.
      5. And add the ½ cup palm sugar, ¼ cup white cane sugar, 2 tbsp. dark soy sauce, ¼ cup light soy sauce, 2 tbsp. seasoning sauce and boil eggs cover. Using low heat boil until the duck is very soft (about 1½ hours).  And add ¼ cup cornstarch boil until the sauce is thickened.
      6. Boil the water. Add the noodle, bean sprouts, kale or lettuce; boil 15 seconds. Drain and transfer to serving bowl.
      7. Pour the soup and duck, egg cut in half. Sprinkle with spring onion, coriander, celery, deep fried garlic and oil.

Serve very hot with chili vinegar sauce and Thai seasonings such as hot chili flakes, white sugar, and fish sauce.

 

Ham Steak with Bourbon Sauce

Heat 2T butter until not foaming, heat seasoned ham steak in it until hot thru and brown on each side (5m), deglaze with 1/4 bourbon, lite and cook off alcohol, add 2t mustard and 1/2 cup cream, reduce sauce and serve.

Nothing is Ruined

I botched duck confit. Hard to do? Not when you leave it marinating in salt for three days instead of 24 over Christmas, a decidedly overwhelming holiday.

After roasting them in the fat, then reheating the next day in the saute pan I discovered I’d made duck jerky. A salty, bacao-style jerky suited only for the saltaholic wodtke pallette (and not really that).

But hope springs eternal! I chopped up a couple legs and put it in risotto, where the risotto creaminess offset the duck’s salt and the duck’s chewiness provided a nice texture contrast against the uniformity of the rice. This risotto was so damn good, if I’d live a hundred years ago in spain, it might be a national dish as bacalao is now. I had to eat two bowls, and lay there in a stupor trying to figure out how I could choke down more.

(Continued)

Bao

Starting new year with homemade bao. Chinese pal confessed to me his dad uses biscuit in can for dough… that simplifies matters.  Filling recipe follows

 

(Continued)

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